5,897 m / 19,347 ft
5,897 m / 19,347 ft · descent · Termas de Papallacta
A short private drive from Tambopaxi brings you to the trailhead at 4,600 m / 15,092
ft, followed by a forty-five-minute walk to the José Ribas Refuge beneath the
glacier. Rope teams then depart on a staggered schedule between 12:15 and 1:15 a.m.,
each climber with a Lead Guide and two Mountain Assistants nearby. Staggered
departures prevent route congestion and reduce the time climbers spend standing in
the cold.
Oxygen flows from the moment you leave the hut, delivered by nasal cannula so you
can talk, drink, and use a camera normally. Around 5,500 m you switch to a reservoir
mask for the final section. There is no cylinder change on the mountain — the
6.8-liter cylinder covers the entire day with reserve.
| Time |
Milestone |
Altitude |
| 11:00 p.m. (D4) |
Private transfer to the trailhead |
4,600 m / 15,092 ft |
| 12:15 – 1:15 a.m. |
Staggered departures from José Ribas Refuge |
4,864 m / 15,958 ft |
| 3:00 a.m. |
Enter the glacier; rope up |
~5,100 m / 16,732 ft |
| 5:00 a.m. |
Switch to reservoir mask |
~5,500 m / 18,045 ft |
| 6:00 – 7:15 a.m. |
SUMMIT |
5,897 m / 19,347 ft |
| 8:00 a.m. |
Absolute turnaround time |
— |
| 10:30 a.m. |
Return to refuge |
4,864 m / 15,958 ft |
| Afternoon |
Descent and private transfer to Papallacta |
3,300 m / 10,827 ft |
On the summit, with oxygen flowing at four liters per minute, the inspired oxygen
pressure is roughly equivalent to what your body experiences at 1,200 m. The crater
is 800 meters across and still vents sulfur. On a clear morning, you can see
Antisana, Cayambe, the Ilinizas, and Chimborazo on the southern horizon.
Oxygen is weaned progressively on the descent rather than stopped abruptly. After a
hot meal at the refuge, you are driven to Termas de Papallacta, where volcanic hot
springs sit in a cloud-forest valley at 3,300 m. Ending the hardest day of your life
in thermal water is part of the program, not merely a logistical convenience, and it
is the evening most climbers remember.
Altitude:
5,897 m / 19,347 ft
Distance:
12–14 km
Duration:
9–11 hrs
Meals:
B · BL · D
Accommodation:
Termas de Papallacta
Turnaround is 8:00 a.m. and it is absolute. If your rope team has not reached the
summit by then, it descends. That decision belongs to your Lead Guide alone and is
not reviewable by you, your party, or our commercial team, regardless of how strong
you feel in the moment. This is the single most important safety control in the
program, and it is the reason the Summit Guarantee exists — so that no one, on
either side of the transaction, has any incentive to push that clock.